Day 39: Dreamy tailwinds

Day 39: Dreamy tailwinds

It was a real shame to leave Quebec so early this morning. I will be back soon. The first, arguably most crucial stop was at St Henri, a good Montreal-based coffee roaster that expanded recently to Quebec. After a cappuccino and a croissant I raced to the ferry. It runs hourly on Sunday morning and in classic fashion I arrived just in time. There was heavy bike traffic on the ferry, in fact all through Quebec there has been a steady stream of people out enjoying the province’s many bike routes and trails. It’s great to see after the solitude of the prairies and Ontario.

Some cyclists waiting for the ferry ramp to open
Some of the 20 or so cyclists aboard the ferry

Once across the river I pointed the bike toward Rivière du Loup, or so I thought. Many intersections along the Route Verte are poorly signed, as in not at all. After a couple of minor detours I sorted things out and got moving. A stop for provisions was in order, and I took advantage of the civilized liquor laws of Quebec and added a small bottle of wine to my haul. This proved beneficial at lunch, where I would have been the only person at the picnic area without a glass of wine. When in Rome…

A grocery conveyor with strawberries, a banana, a baguette, cheese curds, a wedge of cheese, and a bottle of wine
Now to fit this on the bike…

After lunch the wind really picked up. It was blowing 30+ km/h, gusting to at least 40. Thankfully it was generally behind me, I saw lots of cyclists struggling to pedal against the wind.

Ultimately I stopped 30 km short of Rivière du Loup, owing to the slow start this morning. My campsite has a brewery next to it, obviously I checked it out. They had a couple of collaborations with my favourite brewpub in Montreal, Isle de Garde. It was not Quebec’s best offering, but a competent lineup and a big (and young) crowd for a Sunday night. Tomorrow’s goal is to reach Mont Joli, which means a long day in the saddle. The next five days will easily be the longest five-day stretch, a big push which will be rewarded by seeing all my friends in Halifax on the weekend. As long as the rumoured hurricane passes before I get close enough to feel its wind & rain this should work out.

Today’s distance: 164.6 km

Cumulative distance: 5,466.3 km

Today’s climb: 618 m

The route from Quebec to Rivière du Loup along the east shore of the St Lawrence
Today’s ride